I far prefer these unsullied beauties to their deep-fried brethren, the Thai spring rolls

Though the take-out menu states that Golden Bamboo specializes in Thai and Japanese cuisine, we found nothing of the latter on the menu. Rather, there's a selection of Vietnamese dishes to be had, and glad we were of that. For under 10 bucks, we ordered a sampler of appetizers: chicken satay; a deep-fried fish cake studded with scallion; deep-fried spring rolls; a couple of batter-fried shrimp; and, my favorite, Vietnamese "summer" rolls. These are translucent rice-flour tortillas that are wrapped around thin rice vermicelli noodles, lettuce, pork, and a large butterflied shrimp, served cold with a hoisin dipping sauce that's spiked with a dash of super-hot red chile sauce. I far prefer these unsullied beauties to their deep-fried brethren, the Thai spring rolls, which carry far fewer flavor and texture sensations. I developed an addiction to these Vietnamese treats while working in San Jose, Calif., which has a huge Vietnamese population and lots of great Vietnamese restaurants.

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